KM 1543 Guayaquil, Ecuador

KM 1543 Guayaquil, Ecuador

El bus salió de Máncora a tiempo y la verdad es que era un buen bus (al menos mejor de lo que esperaba). Llegamos alrededor de media noche al cruce fronterizo con Ecuador. La verdad, estaba muy emocionado. Aunque haya salido muchas veces del Perú, esta vez era muy distinto.
La frontera real entre el Perú y Ecuador es una frontera viva. Eso quiere decir que puedes cruzar el puente de Huaquillas (Ecuador) a Aguas Verdes (Perú) y viceversa con libertad. Sin embargo, si vas a sellar documentos (pasaporte o DNI) hay otro sitio donde se hace. Esta alejado de la ciudad en sí, un complejo grande donde llegan los buses y demás (aunque nunca he visto camiones de carga). En este sitio, en un solo ambiente están los oficiales de migraciones de Perú y Ecuador. Aparte, tienen wifi, baños limpios y gratuitos, cafetería, etc. Probablemente uno de los mejores cruces fronterizos, sobretodo porque no hay personas ofreciéndote una serie de servicios.
Nuestro bus fue el único que había cuando llegamos. Pasamos relativamente rápido y fue cuando llegué a migraciones del Perú que la oficial de turno me dijo que mi pasaporte vencía en menos de 6 meses. Ella me podía sellar la salida, pero en Ecuador no me iban a dejar entrar. Por un momento pensé que mi viaje ya se había acabado prácticamente antes de empezar. A veces siento que me doy por derrotado muy rápido en algunas cosas. Felizmente, recordé que somos parte de la Comunidad Andina y que podía entrar a Ecuador solo con mi DNI (cédula). Entonces, eso fue lo que hice. Ahora, según mi pasaporte, nunca he entrado a Ecuador. La conclusión a la que llegué, era renovar mi pasaporte en algún consulado peruano en el camino. No sabía dónde aún, probablemente en algún sitio donde pasara una buena cantidad de tiempo.
Continuamos el viaje durante toda la noche y llegamos temprano en la mañana al terminal de buses de Guayaquil. Ese terminal es uno de los más modernos que he visto (si es que no es el más moderno), mejor incluso que muchos aeropuertos que he visto.
Ya había estado en Guayaquil antes, durante mis primeros viajes como mochilero, así que ya conocía algo la ciudad. Mi plan era dar vueltas por la ciudad durante el día y tomar un bus en la noche a Quito, así me ahorraba otra noche de hospedaje. Usé el baño del terminal para tomar lo más parecido a un “baño” que pude. Llevé mi mochila a un sitio que guarda equipajes y me fui con mi morral. Tomé un bus que me llevó al centro de Guayaquil y de ahí caminé al Malecón. Toda la zona del Malecón (o Malecón 2000) es muy bonita. Es relativamente moderna y hace contraste con edificios grandes y antiguos.

Malecon en Guayaquil

El calor era muy fuerte, muy húmedo y el sol quemaba bastante. Tomé refugio en un McDonald’s con aire acondicionado y wifi. Si, si se que la idea de viajar en parte es probar la comida local. Sin embargo, era lo único que encontré y necesitaba el wifi. Después de una rica comida gringa de unos $ 5 y navegar un rato en internet, decidí que quería conocer el Las Penas y subir hasta el mirador y el faro.
Anticipando este viaje, empecé a caminar mucho en Lima. Caminar a todas partes, distancias que otros no harían de ninguna forma. Casi nadie sabía de mis intenciones de hacer este viaje, así que creo que pensaron que estaba loco. Bueno, esa fue la preparación física que tuve para este viaje. Sin embargo, nada me preparó para soportar ese calor y hacerlo en subida por los 500 escalones que tiene el Las Penas. Lo bueno es que en todo el camino había vendedores de cerveza que te alentaban a seguir subiendo y que te brindaban una refrescante cerveza por un dólar. Finalmente llegué a la cima un poco borracho, pero llegué. Ahí había un parquecito y un poco más arriba una especie de plaza con una iglesia, un faro y unos canones del tiempo en el que se utilizó como una batería costera para proteger el puerto.

Faro en Las Penas

Para cuando finalmente bajé ya era media tarde, casi las 4pm. Quería evitar la hora punta, entonces decidí emprender el retorno al terminal. El sistema de buses es muy parecido al Metropolitano en Lima, solo que con mucha menos gente.
Compré un boleto de bus por un poco más de $10 que salía a las 10pm a Quito. Tenía unas 4 horas que esperar antes de que saliera el bus, así que me quede por ahí sentado en el piso usando mi mochila de respaldar utilizando el wifi del terminal que solo te daba una hora a la vez por un lapso de 24 horas.
La verdad es que Guayaquil no tuvo muchas eventualidades, pero me recordaba bastante a una Lima con menos gente y mejor organizada. Ósea, más de lo mismo…
Ah! Las guayacas son mucho más bonitas de lo que pensé.

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